V-twin
power: Suzuki SV650S
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As many of you know Mustangs leak, weathered by rain, salt,
leaves that trap moisture and humidity.
The cause of many leaks is worn cowl panels. Click here for
that repair. The cowl houses the vents in front of the windshield. Beneath the
vents, in the driver and passenger corners, are round sheet metal cylinders intended
to keep water and debris from falling into the interior while allowing fresh
air in. These items were not painted or even primed at the factory and, therefore,
are prone to leaks.
This Web page details my front floor pan replacement in July
1999. This job was my first major panel replacement, though I
did learn to weld in high school and college shop classes and
have worked with auto body experts on various projects. If you've
never welded before, read the welder instructions carefully and
practice butt and overlap welds before beginning on the floor
pans.
Safety glasses and goggles, a welders face shield, coveralls
and leather gauntlets got a lot of use in this job, and I kept
a fire extinguisher close at hand. As with any other job, the
first priority is safety. To remove the floor pans, I used a
jigsaw and a 4-inch grinder. To weld in the new pans, I used
a wire-feed welder.
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you can see from the top left photo, my driver-side floor pan was
in bad shape. I made the hole beneath
the brake pedal simply by picking at the metal with my hand. The
black overspray visible on the transmission tunnel is "rustproofing" paint
I applied in 1997 during a carpet replacement. The paint was overwhelmed
by the relentless water leaks as well as the age of the metal. The
passenger-side floor pan was not quite as deteriorated, but still
needed replacement. |
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After
I cut out the rusted metal, I ground and brushed away surface rust
and primed. The pans are spot welded in at the factory; make sure you
grind down the welds and remove as much of the old pans as possible.
On the drivers side, watch out for the fuel line (left of the frame
rail) and emergency brake cable (right of the rail). The two holes
visible in the frame rail and crossmember are normally filled by rubber
plugs. |
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To
weld in the passenger-side pan, I drilled holes in the pan approximately
where the spot welds had been located on the original pan, set
the pan in place, then welded up the holes. On the transmission
tunnel, I overlap welded the pan to the tunnel. On the outside
by the door, I overlap welded inside the car and butt welded beneath
the car. Don't weld long beads; doing so will warp the metal. |
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Remember that a bracket that tensions the parking brake cable is
on the bottom of this pan. Use the old pan as a template to mark the
new pan and weld the bracket into place before welding the pan into
the car. |
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of Rustoleum should help keep the new floorpans in good shape. |
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A couple of notes: If you
have trouble getting the pans to lie flat for welding, screw them
into place with sheet metal screws, then remove the screws one by
one, welding up the holes as you go. Also, you most likely will need
to cut or modify the pan for your particular case; do so carefully.
Lastly, add a few welds on the underside of the pan for added strength
and to close any gaps. And take your time.
Altogether, this
job took a couple of weekends, since I had to do it outside in my
apartment parking lot. I spent a fair amount of time moving tools
and materials out in the morning and back inside in the evening. Here
are the material costs: |
| Part |
Vendor |
Cost |
| Short floorpan LH |
National Parts Depot |
$24.95
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| Short floorpan RH |
National Parts Depot |
24.95
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| Floorpan drain cover and plug kit |
National
Parts Depot |
10.95
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| 3M
brushable gray seam sealer |
National Parts Depot |
23.50 |
| Spray primer and paint |
Lowe's |
8.01 |
| Total |
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$92.36 |
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| Boyd's Mustang |
| Tech |
| Photos |
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